Gaumukh Tapovan – Most Rewarding Trek

The trek begins at Gangotri the following morning. Gangotri is known as the source of the river Ganga (the actual source being Gaumukh), which is known as Bhagirathi here.

It is said that King Bhagirath prayed to Lord Shiva for the salvation of the souls of his 60,000 sons. Shiva obliged and requested Goddess Ganga to release her water, which purified the ashes of Bhagirath’s sons. This mythological story elevated the status of the River Ganga as a means to purify one’s soul.

Start from Gangotri early in the morning.

The trail to Chirbasa goes through a Forest Check Post around 2 km from the Gangotri bus stand. A trail goes up from the bus stand towards the left side of the forest. The trail runs on the left side of the market area and one can take multiple trails from inside of the market to connect with the trail. Walk till you reach the Forest Check Post.

This may take around 15-30 minutes, depending on where you start from within Gangotri. From here, spot a striking white peak in the distance. This is Sudarshan Parbat (21,345 ft), looking stunning in the background. It lies in a cluster of many major peaks. After getting the permits checked, proceed on the trail that remains on the left side of the mountain ridge throughout the day. The Bhagirathi River remains below, always to your right. There are a few isolated glaciers on the river that are melting rapidly.

In around 15 minutes, you will come across the first of many waterfalls and streams that you will see today. The trail mostly has gradual inclines and level walks. Trek for another 20-30 minutes and you will see another stream gushing below a makeshift bridge. After crossing the bridge, the valley opens up and turns right. Feast your eyes on the several snow-capped mountain ranges on the right side of the valley. After 20 minutes, you will see the third major stream on your path. Sudarshan Parbat is now no longer visible. The trail remains consistent for another 45 minutes. Now, the path swirls further towards your right as you cross the third ridge, giving way to a breathtaking view of the valley. Bask in a healthy presence of blue pine and silver birch trees around you.

A consistent hike of 45 minutes will bring you to a boulder zone over one of the snouts coming from Sudarshan Parbat. Cross the boulders and hike up for about 10 minutes to reach a series of dhabas.

Chirbasa is another 15 minutes away under forest cover. A special mention should be given to Himalayan Environmental Trust, who, along with the Forest Department, has been able to successfully implement an afforestation project in this area. As you pass the check post of the Forest Department, take the trail down on your right to reach the camping ground of Chirbasa. Look for a GMVN hut on level ground next to Bhagirathi River. Camp here for the night.

Bhagirathi River is to the right of the Chirbasa campsite. The place gets its name from the Chir trees that surround it. You get clear views of the Bhagirathi peaks from Chirbasa. Also visible in the distance is the mouth of the Gaumukh glacier.

The valley widens from Chirbasa and offers views of snow-clad peaks. Take the trail from behind the GMVN hut. The trail connects with the Gaumukh trail, which extends from the forest check post. This section will take 5 to 10 minutes. Once connected with the primary trail, you will be able to see the Chirbasa campsite below. There is a minor landslide-prone section within 10 minutes from this point. After this section, the terrain is broken into certain sections but is manageable. Look for the first ridge ahead towards your left in the distance. It takes around 30-45 minutes to reach this ridge and cross the bend.

As you trudge through the silent hills, the Bhagirathi peak looms closer into view. After 20 minutes of gradual ascent, look for a stream to your left. Another 45 minutes of a similar gradient will have you reach another landslide-prone area. This area has a boulder gradient and a stream crossing your path. Climb up for another five minutes to traverse the second ridge/bend. There are 8-9 landslide-prone bends from here. It takes 20 to 30 minutes to traverse this section. Keep an eye for falling rocks and avoid resting. Move swiftly. After crossing this section, you will see a bridge with a stream flowing below. Bhojbasa, the widest point in the valley, is only 1.5 km from this point.

The valley narrows as you move on the trail to Gaumukh. Take the trail from the GMVN hut going up and connecting with the Gaumukh route. It takes 10 minutes till you intercept the primary trail to Gaumukh. From here, it’s a gradual ascent for about 2.5 hours to Gaumukh. After 20 minutes of level walk, you reach the first glacial stream crossing. You can now see Mt. Shivling on the right.

After 20 minutes, you reach a rock face that you need to cross over. As you cross this bend, you get an unprecedented view of Gaumukh. The trail now becomes boulder moraine but is manageable.

15 minutes later, you reach the second major stream crossing. Then, 20 minutes of level walk on the defined trail will get you to a level camping ground. Climb up the moraine and walk to the vantage point of Gaumukh, which is 500 metres away from the glacier. There is a small open temple of Lord Shiva here. Pilgrims are refrained from going any further unless they have permission to camp at Tapovan. Proceed from the left side of the moraine ridge and climb up another 20 metres. You now get a great view of the Gaumukh glacier. As you proceed, observe the fragmentation of the glacier and debris from the rockfall over the years.

Start early in the morning from the campsite and walk for about half a kilometre. You will reach the Bhagirathi River. Here, the technical team along with the trek leader will help you on the Tyrolean traverse.

Tyrolean traverse in short Tyrol or TT is a method of crossing rivers in the mountains where bridges are not in place. It is done from a natural anchor (Boulder or a tree) to another anchor through a rope, pulley, and seat harness attached to the person. It is a safe and efficient way of crossing a river. However, setting up Tyrolean traverse is an advanced technique and should be done only by trained professionals.

In Gaumukh Tapovan trek, on Tapovan day, after a 20 minutes hike from Bhojbasa Campsite, we set up a Tyrolean traverse to cross the Bhagirathi river.

If you are trekking by yourself, there is also a trolley installed by forest officials. This should help you get across the river.

This will take approximately 1 hour for the entire batch to cross. After that, you start your trek. The walk is approximately 2 km, on a visible path, with rocks and stones on either side. After this begins a gradual ascent.

After this, you hit a rock face, which you will have to climb to get to Tapovan.

This climb is adjacent to Akash Ganga, which flows vertically down this rock face. Ensure this section is climbed before lunchtime to avoid potential rockfalls and an increase in the volume of water coming down Akash Ganga. The climb takes an hour to two, depending upon the conditions. The climb is a steep incline on loose gravel.

After about 100 metres into the climb, look for spots from where you can cross Akash Ganga. If the volume of water is high, then you need to take your shoes off and cross the stream. Otherwise, boulder hopping is also possible. Take a break after crossing the stream. You can have lunch here.

Tapovan is a steep climb from here. It will take you about 1.5 hours to reach. Look for a suitable camping spot and camp for the night.

The mountain views from the Tapovan campsite are astonishing. You can see Mt Shivling to the right. Meru is to the right of Shivling. On the left side of Shivling, a little behind is Sumeru. Further to the left, you see Bhagirathi peaks, Thenu and Sudarshan Parbat. If you walk to the ashram that is visible from the campsite, Shivling appears even closer.

Tapovan is a high-altitude alpine meadow below Mt. Shivling, which dominates the landscape. Tapovan is spread over 2 km in length. Although it’s vast level ground, not all the land is suitable for camping. The area close to Mt. Shivling is wet during early summer due to melting snow and glacial water. These grounds have been used by many sages to meditate over the centuries. Many such holy men are living permanently at Tapovan.

Proceed from Bhojbasa on the same trail back to Chirbasa.
The trek involves a gradual descent and a series of level walks, which can be done swiftly. The trek back to Gangotri is the same trail taken to reach Chirbasa. It’s a very gradual descent, which takes far less time to cover than the ascent.

From the campsite begin your descent to Gangotri. You will be able to see a beautiful view of Mt Shivling. Follow the same route that you climbed up. You will cross the same boulder section and a stream. Continue climbing down, you will have a traverse section. Make sure to keep an eye out for falling rocks. Do not rest here.

Continue walking on the path. You will cross the landslide-prone area. Here the Bhagirathi peak looms closer into view. Continue walking on the same path. From here on the lookout for the Chirbasa campsite.

Continue on the path. Notice the beautiful pine and silver birch trees around you. The trail remains consistent for another 45 minutes. You will another stream on your path. Continue walking here for another 20 minutes. Take a left turn, and notice the valley closing behind you.

While walking notice the Bhagirathi river below, to your left. You are now nearing Gangotri. Go through the forest trek post 2 km from the Gangotri bus stand.

Drive back from Gangotri to Dehradun.
Cab cost per vehicle will be Rs.8000 (5-6 seater). You will reach Dehradun between 6.00 pm and 7.00 pm.